Founded by Jim Allmon in 1999, Blackhawk is today an industry-leading aircraft improvement company that for years has made its name doing King Air engine conversions on several different models, all of which enhance the performance and therefore the utility and value of the aircraft. It’s often an extremely cost-effective move for owners, as a coming cost of required engine maintenance can be rolled into their new Blackhawk King Air. The company also does engine conversions on Caravans, and it recently announced a new program to do engine upgrades to Pilatus PC-12s.

In announcing the deal, Allmon wrote, “We are very excited to join New State Aviation Holdings and partner with the folks at AVEX,” said Blackhawk CEO, Jim Allmon. “Our family of companies shares a singular focus: to increase an aircraft’s capabilities to unrivalled heights while maintaining the highest level of safety possible. We look forward to working with Chad [Cundiff] and the rest of the New State Aviation team to further expand our services.”

AVEX is already in that game, for the past year providing sales and maintenance for the Daher TBM turboprop. In a press release announcing the sale, Blackhawk wrote, “AVEX and Blackhawk will continue to operate independently, while working together to expand New State’s aviation offerings. Blackhawk’s management will remain with the Company.” The terms of the deal were not disclosed.

Blackhawk Announces Engine Program for The PC-12

The post Blackhawk Sells Majority Share to Growing Aircraft Upgrade Firm appeared first on Plane & Pilot Magazine.

You’ve got the will to get it clean and sparkly again, but the question remains, exactly how do you do that? And is it a job that a do-it-yourselfer can pull off on the weekend, or is it better left to the pros? 

But What Is “Detailing?”

Detailing can mean many different things to many different people. But one thing everyone generally can agree upon is the outcome of your detailing effort will result in the removal of visible and hidden contaminants from the exterior finish, creating a blemish-free shine to the painted surfaces. Detailing the interior deep-cleans the seats, glass and plastics and is just a step below refurbishing, which could include leather replacement, new paint, new avionics, and new panel plastics and the like. 

Refinishing, which is a significant effort undertaken by professionals, begins by removing the aircraft of all its flight controls, prepping the surfaces by stripping them down to the base aluminum (utilizing a chemical called methyl ethyl ketone) and then repainting. Since repainting adds additional weight, the aircraft will need to be rebalanced; everything then gets reassembled and control surfaces tested. Then tested again. This entire process is time consuming, requires skilled technicians and is an expensive proposition. The result, however, is an aircraft that looks like it just rolled off the showroom floor. 

The Pro Treatment

As aircraft owners, we are used to outsourcing many aspects of our ownership experience. Instead of taking the do-it-yourself approach to aircraft detailing, you might want to go the professional route and hire a specialist. You likely do so already with aircraft maintenance as well as fueling, hangar movements and the like. So, why not aircraft cleaning? Doing so on a regular basis will preserve your aircraft finish, always giving you a shiny aircraft to fly, and you might even pick up an extra knot or two of speed without lifting a finger (except while writing the check, of course). 

You may think that outsourcing aircraft detailing is a guilty pleasure. Kind of like listening to Nickelback. But the truth is that some of us do not have the desire, knowledge or time to detail an aircraft. For those who fall into that category, find yourself a reputable aircraft detailer and reap the benefits of professional expertise. 

Additional professional detailing services include paint correction, which effectively removes oxidation, minor scratches and swirl marks. In most cases, this restorative service will also extend the life of the paint. Depending on the condition of the aircraft, expect to invest between $2,000-$3,000 for paint correction services by a professional aircraft detailer. This generally is a one-time cost, typically associated with an aircraft that hasn’t had the luxury of being hangared out of the sun. 

These experts have seen it all and understand the idiosyncrasies of aircraft detailing. From detailing around button-head rivets to working in a well-lit space, their expertise will assure a safe, damage-free outcome that can be easily appreciated. 

Know Your Subject

Most aircraft flying today are comprised of aluminum, composite or fabric. While the latter requires special consideration to maintain the integrity of the fabric, aluminum or composite can generally use the same types of certified cleaning materials without concern. Major certifications for cleaning products are those certified by Boeing, AMS or SMI. Industry experts also recommend referring to your specific manufacturer for any special considerations for recommended cleaning products. 

For those who fly fabric-covered aircraft but still want to keep their bird clean and shiny, it’s recommended to use the least-abrasive cleaners available. Most fabric is painted with a plasticized lacquer, commonly referred to in the aircraft world as “dope.” (Not to be confused by today’s Gen Z definition of dope, which is anything cool and good in life. Although, one could argue that those who fly fabric-covered aircraft are pretty dope as well.) 

By utilizing the least-abrasive cleaners for your fabric airplane, you will minimize the risk of damaging the finish. In fact, many professionals simply wipe down the aircraft with a damp cloth and a mild dish soap like Dawn. Once all the dirt, dust, oil and grease have been removed by this method, then spray on a wash and wax-type product, which will restore the luster to the finish of your fabric airplane. 

No matter what you fly, keep in mind that you will want to tape off some critical areas before beginning the detailing process. Those include static ports and pitot tubes (pros suggest using a large piece of painter’s tape over those ports, which prevents contamination from chemicals and cleaners). It’s also a good idea to tape a long streamer in that place to mark the ports so that those critical areas are not inadvertently left covered after the cleaning process. Not doing so has caused preventable accidents in the past. These “Remove Before Flight” streamers are easily spotted during your walkaround and are a good way to prevent instrument errors caused by covered static ports and pitot tubes when taking the first flight after detailing. 

Most professional detailers will also exclude cleaning under the cowling. There is simply too much that can go wrong while attempting to degrease and clean the engine compartment area. If your engine is dirty and greasy, it is suggested that you speak with an A&P prior to doing any degreasing and cleaning work under the cowl. 

DIY It! 

So, you’ve decided to go the sweat equity route. But where does one start? The good news and the bad news is, there’s more to it than you might think. 

If you are the weekend warrior type, you could break out the proverbial bucket, soap and hose and attempt to do it yourself. Unfortunately, if you treat your aircraft like your car, at the very least, you may be disappointed in the results. 

However, if you approach the do-it-yourself airplane detailing properly, with the proper prep, tools and knowledge, your results will be well worth the elbow grease effort of tackling this as a do-it-yourself task. 

As William Graves from Midwest Aircraft Detailers tells Plane & Pilot, “The do-it-yourselfer should understand the difference between aircraft paint and automobile finishes. It’s important to use the correct cleaning products, along with the correct steps for a positive outcome.” 

Using the dry washing method as outlined provides the most flexibility on where you can undertake the do-it-yourself detailing. Most airports will allow you to do this in your own leased hangar. 

However, if you will be doing “wet washing,” you may find more restrictions on where you are allowed to do so. Each airport has different rules for this type of washing. Some airports have designated areas, referred to as “wash bays,” for wet washing. Others simply prohibit this activity. Check with your airport management for your specific location.

“If you approach the do-it-yourself airplane detailing properly, with the proper prep, tools and knowledge, your results will be well worth the elbow grease effort of tackling this as a do-it-yourself task.”

Inside Clean

When tackling the interior during your detailing journey, you will want to have plenty of microfiber towels, leather cleaner and conditioner, steam, carpet extractor and extractor soap, a detailing brush and a small horse hair brush for getting the dust out of those hard-to-reach places.

It’s best to try to stay away from leather cleaners that contain alcohol or solvents. They can lift the dye and damage the seats beyond repair, especially on those interiors that have been re-dyed. Care must also be taken when using steam to clean. Always test the process in an inconspicuous place on the interior, just to be certain no damage to the original dyed color will occur during the cleaning process.

For fabric interiors, utilize a good-quality fabric cleaner while using a medium bristle brush to scrub the surface of the seat. Any set-in stains can be lifted by using a stain extractor (similar to removing a stain from your shirt). However, it’s best to avoid aggressive deep cleaning of older fabrics, as damage to the fabric can occur, based on the age and condition of the fabric.

If you’ve never attempted to wash or wax an airplane, it’s guaranteed that you’ll be surprised at the amount of surface area and resultant time that it takes to complete the job. 

So, what steps are best undertaken when washing and detailing your aircraft? It all starts with an oxymoron called “dry washing,” which begins with a degreaser to remove any bugs who had the unfortunate timing to be in the same airspace in all three dimensions at the same time as you. In addition to bug removal, a good-quality degreaser will also remove any heavy dust and hard contaminates from the aircraft surface. 

The next step is the utilization of the dry wash chemical. While the dry wash is not actually dry, it’s a special chemical that is safe on most types of aircraft finishes, with results that leave your aircraft looking clean and spiffy. Spray on, wipe off. Sounds easy. And it is. Mostly. Make sure you have plenty of high-quality microfiber towels available during this process. 

At this point, the dry wash will remove any residual remnants of the degreaser and ready the airplane for the next step in your aircraft spa process, the Clay Bar, which is just what it sounds like, a bar of clay specially designed for detailing: a simple hand-held, old-fashioned, typically synthetic cleaning bar that will lift any remaining contaminates, such as industrial fallout, tree sap and the like from the surface of the aircraft, leaving a contaminate-free, smooth surface. As with every step we describe here, test this on a small, inconspicuous area.

Once you have completed the above steps, your aircraft will have that showroom-shine, new-aircraft look. To preserve that shine, you could put the finishing touches on a job well done by adding a ceramic coating or polyreactive sealant. 

One important thing to remember for any product that you choose to use during your do-it-yourself detailing is to utilize cleaning products certified by an aerospace manufacturer. Most industry experts say the most common and one of the most respected certifications for these products is those “Boeing-certified.” Look at the product label for any approved certifications. If you do not see any certifications listed on the bottle, it is not a certified product.

One safety issue to consider with ceramic coatings is static, which can build up more quickly on some planes with this treatment. Check with your aircraft manufacturer to be sure that a ceramic coating will not create any issues with your avionics. Specifically, trade professionals tell Plane & Pilot that static created by the aircraft with no static wicks, especially those flying in instrument meteorological conditions, may be more prone to avionics issues after a ceramic coating is applied. As always, check your POH or manufacturer recommendations for specifics about your aircraft.

After the initial professional dry wash and detailing, the cost of having this service completed on a regular basis will not only provide the satisfaction of enjoying a clean aircraft but also the payback of completing this cosmetic service will preserve the finish and paint quality, allowing for long-lasting enjoyment and prolonging any need to repaint. Depending on your geographic location, budget between $650-$900 for this professional exterior detail.

How often should you have your aircraft detailed? While it truly depends on the type of aircraft and your mission, most professionals recommend every 25-30 flight hours on a typical single-engine aircraft. For turboprop aircraft on 135 certificates such as a King Air, where they are pampered and wiped down after every flight, the recommendation is an annual full detail, with any necessary paint correction with a ceramic or poly coating.

Keep in mind that some aircraft that have spent their entire decades of life in the hot south or southwest sun may not have enough base paint (as determined by a paint thickness measurement test tool) to allow for paint correction. While this is rare, your detailing expert can make a definitive decision on whether paint correction is a viable alternative to a repaint. 

Like anything else, learning how to best detail your plane takes some practice, and it will almost surely be a frustrating experience at times. However, using the right product in the right environment with plenty of time will most likely assure a nice shiny result, money saved and the satisfaction of knowing that your hard work and elbow grease have very visible results. 

Of course, for the rest of us, hiring the professional aircraft detailer and leaving it to the experts is an alternative that not only will save you time but also will give you the peace of mind knowing that your aircraft investment will be well preserved 

Visit the Ownership section of our website for more tips and advice to keep your plane in top condition.

The post How to Detail Your Plane appeared first on Plane & Pilot Magazine.

Installing an auxiliary fuel system to eliminate the temptation to land “on fumes” or, worse yet, to exhaust one’s fuel supply short of the destination, is not an inexpensive or easy solution. That said, there are proven, well-engineered aux fuel systems to be had for the most popular planes, and you’ll find that some airplanes on the market have already had them installed, should you be shopping for a new ride. We’ll discuss what’s available and how they work.

To Tank Or Not To Tank

Is installing auxiliary tanks a good idea? It depends on your needs and plans for the airplane. How often do you make trips that stretch your available fuel supply, requiring an extra stop to complete the mission? If this occurs only a couple of times per year, you’re probably better off leaving the plane as it is. Frequent cross-country jaunts, on the other hand, can justify adding tankage.

Will add-on fuel tanks increase the airplane’s resale value? In the case of some short-legged designs that came from the factory with insufficient fuel supply, definitely. But if the stock fuel capacity is adequate for the great majority of potential buyers, not so much. In general, I always assume that spending money on improvements to your airplane gains only half the expense in immediate resale value. The rest should be recovered in the satisfaction of flying it for a few years.

No solution is free of consequences. Hauling an extra 40 gallons of gas around means your payload is cut by 240 pounds, unless the tank installation includes an extra gross weight allowance, which, in some cases, it does. And the system itself adds to the aircraft’s empty weight. More weight means less performance, requiring a recalculation of the takeoff distance and time-to-climb charts. I knew of a tricked-out Cessna 340 that could legally carry only two people if all of its add-on tanks were topped off. In addition, the usable cruise altitudes, and the single-engine ceiling, were reduced as it struggled to climb with the extra load.

However, it’s very comforting to know you’ve got plenty of gas to go the distance. IFR flying is predicated on being able to dodge some weather, shoot an approach to unknown conditions that might not work out, and then divert to an alternate to land with fuel enough to reach yet another airport if that one didn’t work out. That often means you’ll need to take off with six hours of fuel on board just to make a three-hour trip. For an airplane to be considered “fully IFR capable,” it needs to have more than a panel full of radios; it needs to have legs.

Even if you’re operating carefully VFR, do you really want to sit in an airplane for over five hours? Most passengers need a break in no more than three hours, so stopping to refuel isn’t necessarily a burden. Spending the money to install auxiliary tanks that aren’t used that often may be a needless extravagance.

Born Short

Some airplanes, however, were short-changed at the factory, particularly if they’ve been modified with larger, thirstier engines. A modified Cessna 152 or Grumman AA-1 with its horsepower boosted from 108-110 to 150 is a two-hour cruiser with standard tanks. A lot of Beech Bonanzas from the 1940s and ’50s have been modified with larger engines but were left with only 39 gallons of standard fuel supply. The early 250-hp Piper Comanches came with the 60-gallon tanks of the 180-hp version, begging for a tip-tank modification.

Beech’s first turbocharged Bonanza A36, the A36TC, had the 74-gallon tanks of its normally aspirated sibling, hardly enough to keep it aloft for four hours. The follow-on B36TC hoisted 102 gallons, so it’s obvious why so many A36TC’s have had tip tanks added to feed the TSIO-520 engine. Turbine-converted airplanes, like the Silver Eagle P210, Soloy 206 and turboprop Bonanzas, will obviously need extra fuel for the thirstier turboprop engine. 

Given the need, there are options in add-on fuel systems. Wingtip fuel tanks are a commonly seen modification, sometimes gaining a takeoff weight increase to offset some of the payload limitations. Putting extra fuel on the tips is a better engineering option than adding weight in the fuselage, allowing the wing’s span to share the load instead of increasing bending movement at the root. The drag of the tip tank may be offset somewhat by its end-plate effect by controlling tip vortexes. Adding a rear fuselage tank, by comparison, will cause the C.G. to move aft, something to be done with caution because it decreases pitch stability. 

In homebuilt airplanes, the designer sometimes starts out with a simple header tank located forward of the cabin but, as bigger engines are installed, will be forced to add wing root tanks to replenish the suddenly insufficient header tank. High-wing EAB types can dump the fuel in by gravity, while low-wing homebuilts will need a pump to lift the gas. Designers of twin-engine airplanes may resort to wingtip tanks to supplement fuel in the wings, or there can be nacelle tanks added aft of the engines. 

Tanking The Bonanza

The Beech Bonanza, whose incredible production run is closing in on 75 years, is a particularly fertile field for auxiliary fuel tank installations. The original Bonanza 35’s 39-gallon wing-tank fuel system was soon outgrown as horsepower increased in either stock form or through modification. A factory-installed STC added a 20-gallon rear fuselage tank, available up to the 1954 E35. Some of these older airplanes have even had wingtip tanks installed for a total of five fuel sources. The F35 of 1955 introduced auxiliary wing bladders, used until the 1960 M35, after which the optional-but-always-ordered long-range tanks simplified fuel management.

You can forget about adding an aft-fuselage tank to an old Bonanza that wasn’t built with one, so wingtip fuel is really the only way to go at this point. Even the 74-gallon factory tanks in the more modern Bonanzas aren’t always enough, as we mentioned earlier. Two tip tank options exist; General Aviation Modifications (GAMI), Inc., in Ada, Oklahoma, now offers the 20-gallon tip tanks previously made by J.L. Osborne in Victorville, California, and D’Shannon Aviation, Inc., of Buffalo, Minnesota, sells its own wingtip tank system. Both work well, using electric pumps to move the fuel into depleted wing tanks.

The Osborne by GAMI system uses welded aluminum tanks, while the D’Shannon tanks are made of fiberglass, allowing the incorporation of a sight-gauge window to confirm fuel level in addition to the electric gauges. D’Shannon’s tanks are canted slightly, reportedly improving roll control. If you’re purchasing an existing modified Bonanza, either is worth consideration. 

D’Shannon Aviation has had 50 years of experience with its Bonanza tip tanks, which now have a 20-gallon capacity; older installations offered 15 gallons per side. The latest engineering improvements tailor airflow for maximum efficiency, and an aileron-rebalancing kit is included. Reportedly, the tanks help with the Bonanza’s dutch-roll characteristics. The kit price is $13,850, with installation time requiring about 50 hours, plus or minus; we were told that $1,450 of the cost of the kit is represented by the new AeroLED lights that come with it.

Osborne by GAMI tanks have a long history as well, dating back to the 1950s. They incorporate LED lighting, feature flush filler caps and quick drains, and are said to improve aerodynamic efficiency and stability. The kit price is currently $12,995 and will cost about $20,000 installed. 

Adding tip tanks to a Bonanza can result in an approval to operate at higher gross weights. Both the D’Shannon and GAMI tanks’ extra weight allowance varies by model and, in some cases, requires additional weight to be fuel in the tips. However, the matter of increasing takeoff weight may not be entirely tied to a tip tank installation. D’Shannon offers a Genesis STC to extend gross weight, allowing operation in Normal Category certification instead of the Utility Category carried by most Bonanzas. This resets maneuvering speed and other POH parameters.

Navion Fuel Systems

The J.L. Osborne tip tanks, originally sold under the “Brittain” name, were offered for Navions as well as Bonanzas. The Navion’s unique factory fuel system had two 20-gallon wing tanks filled by a single port, with an optional aft-fuselage tank holding an extra 20 gallons. Without the rear tank option, the addition of 20 gallons per side with the Osborne tip tanks gave a very desirable increase in range. In addition, a 250-pound gross weight increase was part of the Osborne tanks’ approval for the older Navions. A total 108-gallon supply, including tip tanks, was available in the final Navion Rangemaster model. 

Piper Comanche Tip Tanks

The PA-24 Comanche is a fine airplane, but for the first three years of its production, it held only 60 gallons of fuel, not quite enough for the 250-hp version, which is the reason an extra 30 gallons became available in auxiliary wing tanks by 1961. On the early Comanches, one frequently sees Osborne tip tank installations holding 15 gallons each, and they are sometimes found even when the optional 90-gallon fuel system is installed. The Twin Comanche is also a favorite target for adding wingtip tanks. According to GAMI, very few of the Osborne systems for Navions or Comanches were sold in recent years. The new owners will support existing installations with parts and tech support for as long as possible.

More Range For Cessnas

While other options have been pursued for adding fuel capacity to Cessnas, most notably Dave Blanton’s 17-gallon Javelin baggage compartment tank in C-170s, the most successful kits are those from Flint Aero in El Cajon, California. Flint tips, as they are frequently called, have been around since 1967 and are seen on Cessnas all over the world. They mimic the look of standard Cessna wing profiles instead of adding a bubble on the end of the wing. As with other tip systems, an electric pump moves the fuel to the standard tanks after room is obtained.

Flint Aero’s kits result in added wingspan in some cases by locating the tank in an extension of the stock wing, which results in improved climb performance. Many Flint tanks, however, can be internal, preserving the original wingspan by removing the close-out rib and slipping the fiberglass tank inside the wing. 

Approval for legacy Cessnas covers the 150/152, strut-braced 170 and 180 series, and some older 210s. These internal tanks add a total of 23 usable gallons at the cost of 34 pounds of additional empty weight. Estimated time required for the installation is 45 to 60 hours. An average cost of the conversion is around $10,000.

Cantilever-wing Cessna 210s, particularly the turbocharged models, can benefit from the addition of Flint Aeros’ wet wingtips. They add a total of 32.5 gallons and increase overall wingspan by 26 inches, which improves high-altitude performance. Pre-1972 airplanes pick up an extra 400 pounds of gross weight. Kit cost is $19,307, with 55 to 70 hours required for installation.

Cessna 182s and 210s are probably the most likely models to carry Flint auxiliary fuel systems, although bush operators also like more gas for their 206 and 180/185 airplanes. The lighter end of the Cessna line doesn’t see as much need for add-on fuel unless bigger engines find their way into the cowling. That said, Skyhawks with standard 42-gallon tanks, rather than later-optional 52-gallon supply (inherited from the Model 175), do find themselves short-changed in even a light headwind.

Other Aux Tank Options

Ingenuity abounds, it seems, when it comes to putting extra fuel into airplanes. Not all approvals are applicable to other aircraft models in a series, and some of the older STCs are no longer supported. If considering the purchase of an airplane with existing aux tank modifications, be sure to get all the paperwork and check out the availability of parts, if needed. 

In all cases, the value of an auxiliary fuel system will be related to the existence of an STC holder that’s still in business. Orphan equipment adds little to resale worth. Check out the opinions on type-club forums to see what other owners say about their modifications. Extra fuel is worth a lot when you’re struggling to get home against a stiff headwind. 

Facts About Refueling Airplanes

The post Adding Aux Fuel Tanks To Your Airplane appeared first on Plane & Pilot Magazine.

A couple of the most important issues are landing speed, crash worthiness and flight stability.

Often, just looking at the wing will tell you a lot. For instance, a small wing, in span, chord and airfoil thickness, provides higher cruise speed but at the expense of having higher stalling and landing approach speeds.

Under Part 3 of the old Civil Air Regulations, certificated light single-engine airplanes had to have a landing-configuration stall speed no higher than 70 mph, now translated to 61 knots in Part 23 of today’s Federal Aviation Regulations. This figure can be a few knots faster with credit given for crashworthy components, like seats that can take high G loadings. The idea is to make a single-engine airplane that, if that one powerplant gives up the ghost, can be landed somewhere less than ideal at a speed where the occupants are very likely going to walk away, or at least live to tell about it.

Experimental certification removes this and most other limitations, allowing EAB designs to top 300 mph with optimized big-bore engines and whisper-thin wings, but their pilots must accept the reduced crashworthiness of 100-mph landing speeds, which might work fine at your home airport but amounts to rolling the dice when it comes to off-airport landings.

Similarly, the FAR standards for seat structure, cockpit visibility and entry/egress are not mandated for experimental-category airplanes. Such non-conformity is the reason EAB aircraft will have the passenger-warning placard displayed, though in practice the passengers will depend on the pilot to explain what it means.

Stability and spin recovery are other design areas where the FAA’s certification standards are rigorous but can be overlooked by the designer in the name of the desired characteristics, again usually speed. Some very fast homebuilts we’ve flown have little or no pre-stall buffet and behavior where the nose will drop from 10 degrees above the horizon to 50 degrees below in a heartbeat. Some of these very fast designs are also subject to a secondary stall, again something you won’t find on a Cessna 182.

Rather than competing with factory-built airplanes, the custom creations of the EAB category simply represent an alternative path to personal flight. The important thing is that you understand not only the reasons for the tradeoffs but also the nature of the additional risks you and your passengers will need to accept in the process.  It’s probably no surprise that the most successful homebuilt kits are planes that have design and behavior that, if not certifiable, is not far from that mark, so their pilots have the homebuilt advantages and also some reasonable expectation of good handling and reasonably low stall speeds.

Read More: The Homebuilt Aircraft Advantages And Other Considerations

The post Tradeoffs Of Experimental Amateur-Built Aircraft appeared first on Plane & Pilot Magazine.

And then someone will say, “What about homebuilts?,” and I feel eyeballs turn toward me, as the aged arbiter of aviation argumentation. Truthfully, I’ve only flown a few dozen homebuilts, out of the hundreds of amateur-built experimental designs out there, so I’m hardly an expert. But I am nevertheless emboldened to render a broad-based opinion, although it’s probably delivered sharply enough to offend some of the hearers in the group.

“Homebuilts are!different,” I’ll begin. “There are no surprises, and very few breakthroughs, when it comes to light aircraft design. Every airplane is a compromise; if you want more of this, you have to give up some of that. Homebuilts simply cut across some of the barriers imposed by mass-market appeal and FAA certification standards.

“The freedom to build and fly something that doesn’t meet standard certification simply means that an airplane licensed in the experimental-amateur-built category (EAB) will probably fly differently than the normal/utility category bus you rent from the FBO. Its performance is usually optimized toward a certain criteria that were important to the designer and builder, and you’ll see sacrifices in other details to achieve that end.

“The go-like-hell crowd will subscribe to the Great Big Engine/Little Bitty Airplane concept, something that would have never been available in the certificated marketplace because not too many people want to go fast at all cost. Or, in other cases, experimental-aircraft builders will shift toward a small, low-cost alternative engine, as a basis for flying reasonably fast and cheap. That engine won’t be seen in a certified airplane, and the plane might be too small to fit much of the population.”

But, They Say It Will!

By now, one of the assemblages will say, “But what about the XYZ SuperFlash? It does 200 knots on 10 gph and is fully aerobatic to boot.” I’ll have to issue some disclaimer about the difference between the 200 mph stated in the brochure and the 230 mph implied by his statement, and then note that we have to analyze what is meant by “fully aerobatic.” Like full-IFR, that claim is frequently subject to interpretation.

At the foundation, I posit, is the whole point of the EAB category. Homebuilding is about freedom; freedom to build what you want, using whatever materials you choose, to achieve whatever point you want to make. The category was established to support building airplanes for personal education and enjoyment rather than commercial practicality. Because homebuilders are free to build, modify and change their uncertified aircraft as they wish, repeatability is not guaranteed. If the advertisement says “200 mph,” it probably means one specimen may have achieved that benchmark at least once, but an average clone, likely modified with extra elbow room and weight, won’t get there. Claims and representations, in EAB aviation, are somewhat speculative targets. It’s not fraud, per se, it’s just that a design’s projected performance, empty weight, build time or cost is based more on best-case intentions rather than an average of numbers achieved out in the field.

In enjoying experimental amateur-built aviation, we are free to exchange our building efforts for a factory’s production line, cutting the cost considerably unless we try to achieve showplane perfection. However, to obtain these savings, one has to discount the hours and years spent building. If you have the time and skills, it’s a great tradeoff.

And then there’s freedom of expression. A homebuilt airplane is like a blank canvas; we can sketch out pretty much anything we want, putting our own stamp on a design, so long as it doesn’t endanger passengers or the populace below. Even CNC-engineered, kit-supplied airplanes are open to modification, within reason, so if we want extra-thick seats, smoke-tinted canopies, drooped wingtips, etc., EAB allows this freedom.

Enjoying this flexible approach to aviation results in aircraft that don’t always fly predictably from one example to another, and they probably work well for one purpose and not for others. Aircraft design, and modification of a design, is all about compromise; as we said, to get more of this, you have to give up some of that.

So, What’s The Difference?

If there is a generalization to be made regarding EAB aircraft, it is that control response will likely be more sensitive than what we experience in standard production planes. Flight controls can utilize unconventional creations like overhanging center-cockpit stalks or side-mounted sticks, with regular joysticks prevailing over control yokes. On the first takeoff in a homebuilt, you should be ready to use light input pressures, anticipating that the controls will be more sensitive and powerful than what’s allowed in certificated airplanes.

Tailwheel landing gear is more fashionable in homebuilts than in airplanes built for the mass market, and typical characteristics like diminutive size and faster touchdown speed result in such homebuilts having runway handling that’s a notch above the Citabria you might have used to get your tailwheel endorsement. Practice some taxiing and braking before you launch off for the first landing.

Don’t expect to find a certified flight instructor ready to do a checkout in your newly acquired homebuilt. The average CFI knows little about the type or category involved and often can contribute nothing but an evaluation of your ability. If the aircraft is a popular kit airplane that has factory support with training available, you’d be well advised to spend the money to travel to the plant or bring the factory pilot to your location. Among unsupported designs, seek the counsel of other owners and builders. Even if the homebuilt airplane has dual controls, there often is only one set of brakes, and rear-cockpit instrumentation may be lacking, further impeding a checkout.

Because of the customized nature of EAB aircraft, it is vital to go over all the paperwork and logs before flying. Operating limitations are issued when the special airworthiness certificate is awarded and, when the initial flight Phase 1 test hours were being flown, documented data should have been gathered to supplement the often-sketchy information in brochures and blueprints. Weight and balance limitations can be critical for a small homebuilt; the specific numbers for the individual airplane should be in the paperwork, providing the basis for working out best and worst cases before flying. Particularly beware of aft-CG loading’s effect on stability.

It’s critically important to watch for “customized” features when flying someone else’s handiwork. Fuel systems seem to be particularly attractive targets for tinkering, as extra tanks and valves are often installed, perhaps requiring transfer pumps or maybe just gravity feed. The gauging and venting need to be understood as well as the order of usage from individual tanks.

Watch out for unlabeled switches and knobs. In vintage homebuilts, a feature may be removed  by simply disconnecting wires or cables, but the old control will be left in place, replaced by a newer one somewhere else. All inoperative items should be so labeled, and every control needs to be identified by title and function (“Cabin Heat-Pull Hot”). Before flying, know what does what and put temporary reminder labels in place to keep things straight. Know which way the trim knob turns for nose-up and what the limiting speeds are for the flaps and gear rather than relying on memories of a briefing.

Keeping The Chain Intact

The original builder knew the characteristics and features of his or her airplane intimately, but this tribal knowledge may have been lost. As the distance of years and ownership changes add layers of insulating confusion to a homebuilt, some test flying may be required to re-establish a basis for safe operation. Document the findings in well-logged entries, both for the airplane’s records and your own notes, as well as for the benefit of whomever you might sell the plane to down the road.

It is important to understand that experimental amateur-built aircraft are individuals. Because they did not flow down a frozen-type production line, each one bears the stamp of its maker as well as the designer. The wonderful freedom to fly a creation of one’s own hands carries with it a responsibility to other persons who may someday fly what began as your personal aircraft.

Tradeoffs Of Experimental Amateur-Built Aircraft

The post The Homebuilt Aircraft Advantages And Other Considerations appeared first on Plane & Pilot Magazine.

So your plane is equipped for flight into “known-icing”— no need to worry, right? Think again!

When we endeavor as pilots to fly aircraft into icing conditions, we may do the best we can to make sure we avoid prolonged time in icing, heavy icing conditions and/or especially ending up in any icing conditions in aircraft that are not properly equipped for flight into known icing (FIKI) conditions. But sometimes that isn’t enough.

We are just now emerging from icing season for much of the country, and especially here in Michigan, where I fly regularly, but since ice can be a threat regardless of season, I thought it might be worth highlighting some concerns that are less commonly considered when flying an aircraft in encounters with icing.

An aircraft that is equipped for icing conditions will typically have things like heated pitot and/or static ports, anti- or deicing systems for wings and tail surfaces, anti- or deicing systems for propellers or engines, and the same for the windshield of the aircraft. A FIKI-equipped aircraft will have all of these and maybe more.

“FIKI” isn’t just a name. The approval is an FAA certification, and it isn’t easy for manufacturers to achieve. Both Cirrus and Mooney have earned FIKI certification for their singles. As far as the FAA is concerned, that means the aircraft can operate safely in conditions of actual icing. Many other aircraft, and nearly all high-performance ones, have some form of ice protection, too, though mostly it’s certificated not through FIKI standards but as part of the plane’s type certificate, and the FAA makes no claim about its effectiveness in icing, just that its inclusion doesn’t make the design unsafe as a whole.

Having these systems is great. It keeps the airspeed indicator working, the wings generating lift, and the tail from stalling. It also keeps the engine making thrust, and it lets the pilot see out the windshield. This assumes, of course, you are using all the systems properly, and they are keeping up with the amount of ice you are experiencing.

Personal experience has highlighted other risks associated with icing, specifically some things that aren’t typically covered by the certification requirements for flying in icing conditions. Let’s look at a few of those and think about whether they might be things you wouldn’t want to be affected on your next flight.

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Tires

Even on a retractable gear aircraft, your gear has to come down to land. Most people do this somewhere before a final approach fix. Doing this on a fixed gear aircraft leaves the pilot with a few miles to go to landing. If you are still building icing, it may accumulate on those tires. They get pretty slick or sometimes bumpy if there is a buildup of icing on the leading edge as they start to roll on touchdown. It typically comes off pretty quickly, but those first few moments can leave a pilot feeling the effect. Aircraft with wheel pants typically have less buildup on the tires but more on a wheel pant. This can lead to overstressing (from weight effects) the wheel pants or connection points on landings and sometimes vibration.

Landing Lights

Whether in the wing, on the nose wheel or in a cowling, landing lights are almost never covered by deicing systems. Older lights that got hot actually seemed to do better at melting ice off than some of the more modern, cooler, LED lights that are gaining popularity. While it may not be required to land, it sure helps in many cases to be able to use those landing lights. Flying those last 5 to 10 miles of an approach with the landing lights extended (when they are on a gear leg of a retractable gear aircraft or, in some cases, even ones that retract from the wings of the aircraft) can offer time for ice to build up. This buildup can reduce or even nullify the positive effects of landing lights. If you have the option, put them down as close to landing as possible to maximize effectiveness if the concern exists.

Antennas

And now my favorite surprise. The antennas.

Yeah, they aren’t deiced either.

I first learned this on a ride-along with a friend on a medical transfer flight years ago in a Piper Chieftain. Flying at 10,000 feet MSL, we were above the icing in nice cold weather. Unfortunately, the EMT on board told us the passenger in the back wasn’t breathing well with the higher elevation, and we needed to descend. This put us solidly in icing at 6000 feet MSL. About a half-hour into that, during which time we were running our hot props and the window deice, and cycling the boots on the aircraft no longer than every five minutes, we started to get “fuzzy radios.”

It wasn’t long before we were effectively lost comms, not only communication but navigation as well. The VOR reception was failing. Now, this was a while ago, and GPS wasn’t really a thing in most aircraft yet, but the charter company was a little ahead of its time and had as a backup in every aircraft a dash-mounted portable GPS receiver. The little antenna on that happened to be shooting through the only clear path on the window, where the hot plate was keeping it clear. For about an hour, this was our navigation as we headed south toward our destination, Oklahoma City. Somewhere along the flight, I do remember feeling some vibration, then hearing something hit the rear of the aircraft. We assumed it was ice off the wings as it shed off. It wasn’t. But the vibration had stopped.

Further south, it got warmer, and the ice went away, and our communications and navigation came back. We found a sector frequency and re-established ATC communication (yup, a real-life use for lost comms procedures). But we had to do it on Com 2. Com 1 didn’t seem to be working anymore.

We later found that the vibration was probably caused by a buildup of ice on the Com 1 antenna, a result of which it likely started vibrating from the weight buildup. The noise we heard when the vibration stopped was likely when it broke off and departed the aircraft. No doubt the reason that Com 1 wasn’t working after that. Good thing there was a maintenance shop at the airport to fix it. We were back on our way the next day.

What antennas will be affected depends on their positioning on the aircraft and how bad the icing is that is being experienced. Even “some” ice may reduce radio reception, leaving you with a super fun squealing in the radios until you reach an altitude or flight conditions where that icing comes off the aircraft. It may limit your ability to communicate with ATC, definitely something that is worse the busier the airspace you are flying through.

Few people talk about the fact that communication and navigation antennas on the top and bottom of the aircraft may build up icing also.

We all know ice is bad. Most of us know to stay out of it or minimize the time in conditions where it is happening. But if you do have to go into it, do so with the knowledge of what the true capabilities of the systems on your aircraft are and what will be affected. It’s better to come up with a game plan ahead of time than being surprised on your next flight

The post Flight Into Known Icing (FIKI) Approval Is Not Enough appeared first on Plane & Pilot Magazine.

When I bought my 1970 Piper Cherokee 180 and the pre-buy and annual were completed, it was time to introduce my wife to our new bird with a short flight around our area. I was hoping to make a good impression.

The airplane stance was wrong as we approached our plane on the ramp. The nose was sitting way too low. Ouch. The front strut was collapsed.

Because it was a Sunday afternoon, the Augusta Aviation maintenance shop was empty. I contacted the manager and was told that nothing could be done until the next day. I told my wife that our first flight would be another day, and we went out to eat.

The joys of airplane ownership.

The next morning, I arrived to find my strut serviced with nitrogen by the maintenance crew. It was worth a try, since aging seals will sometimes leak in cold weather. Unfortunately, the strut collapsed in less than an hour.

DIY

An owner can participate in the maintenance of their personal airplane, but you’ve got to be under the direction and observation of a certificate holder, as authorized by FAR 43.3 (d). The Certificate holder will watch you work and approve your work when completed to their satisfaction. My shop assigned a mechanic to work with me while I performed most of the required repairs. Working on your airplane can be educational, and it can save you money.

The Oleo strut is a common aircraft suspension component found on many of our airplanes. Although similar in appearance to a motorcycle front suspension, they are significantly different. The biggest difference is that there’s no actual spring, just gas under pressure. The shock absorber is hydraulic fluid flowing through small openings. These struts are simple, sturdy and provide years of trouble-free service, and repairs to them require only basic hand tools. The rebuild took a few hours and required some new seals, a little hydraulic fluid and some compressed nitrogen. The seals are easily obtained as a kit for your specific airplane from most aircraft parts vendors. I completed the repairs for less than $200.

We began troubleshooting by replacing the Schrader valve core, located on the top of the strut. This valve allows you to recharge the gas, like the fill stem on your tires. The core is removed and replaced using a common tool. The rubber seals can go bad, and it is an easy fix, if you are lucky. Unfortunately, after I made that repair, the strut proceeded to collapse in less than an hour.

Luckily, disassembling the strut for rebuilding is easy. You elevate the leaking strut enough to pull the strut shaft out of the housing. Sand bags on the tail of my Piper provided the required clearance. You’ve got to get rid of any remaining gas pressure and then remove the wheel and the tire. You disassemble the strut torque linkage by removing a few fasteners. Then, if you look up into the strut from the bottom, you’ll see a lock ring that must be removed. After that, you simply pull the shaft out of the housing.

When you pull out the strut, a lot of bright red hydraulic fluid will come with it, so a catch pan is a necessity. The main housing remains installed in the aircraft.

Once the strut is on the work bench, you remove heavy duty lock ring to permit removal of the seal bearing sleeve from the fork tube. A few minutes at the parts washer will remove years of dirty sediment from inside the fork tube. Removing and replacing the seals comes next.

You reassemble the unit in the reverse order that you disassembled it. The strut must then be refilled. This sounded complicated in the repair manual. In practice, it was simple. You push a hose on to the Schrader valve stem after removing the valve core. The other end of the hose is inserted into a can of hydraulic fluid. The strut is then expanded and compressed by hand. By using a clear hose, you can watch hydraulic fluid from the can go in and the air bubbles come out with each stroke. Finally, you reinstall the valve core using a nitrogen tank, with regulator, to add sufficient gas pressure to establish the correct ride height. If no leaks are detected, the job should be done.

Unfortunately, once again, the strut collapsed in less than an hour. At that point, I was afraid that I might be facing something expensive. We pressurized the strut and poured some soapy water over it to look for leaks. It was immediately obvious from the bubbles around the base of the Schrader

valve stem that we found the leak. The valve stem body threads into the top of the strut. I removed the stem, and when I did, I discovered that, some time in the past, a rubber o-ring was added to the metal sealing gasket that was intended to seal the stem to the housing. I carefully cleaned the machined surfaces to remove all rubber residue and installed a new metal gasket. We pressurized the strut, and it remained extended. My strut was now fixed.

My supervising mechanic inspected and properly documented the work in the airframe log books, in accordance with FAR 43. I filed away the knowledge for the next time down the road I needed to fix a strut and save hundreds of dollars in the process.

One more quick note: you can rest easy if you are worried about a strut collapse during taxi or landing. Your airplane was designed to avoid a prop-strike in the unlikely event of both a collapsed front strut and a nose wheel with a flat tire.

The post Rebuilding A Strut appeared first on Plane & Pilot Magazine.

We’d argue that the best safety bang for your buck is with an autopilot if you don’t have one or an upgraded one if yours is a bit long in the tooth.

Why is an autopilot a great choice for a safety upgrade? Over the past couple of decades, we’ve come a long way in understanding the nature of the risk we face when flying, especially when flying in instrument conditions, and the role that automation can play in that overall risk picture. We’ve also realized the importance of recognizing where a pilot’s performance might fall short and how we can make our flying safer by coming to terms with our inherent imperfection.

We’ve come to understand that the autopilot is a key component to flying safety. Not that you need an autopilot to be safe, but when the airplane you’re flying is equipped with an automatic flight control system and you know how to use it, your level of risk drops, especially for instrument flying and even more for new instrument pilots.

Today’s digital autopilots are remarkably accurate, reliable and capable. They achieve great accuracy because, instead of mechanical fast-spinning gyros, they make use of digital attitude sensors, which also account for their reliability. With no mechanical parts in the sensor system, modern digital autopilots are far less likely to fail than their predecessors. The capability part is due to the computer revolution and avionics manufacturers making use of small and inexpensive computer chips to mimic the abilities of the flight control systems in airliners, while adding some capabilities the airliners don’t have.

A few companies pioneered digital autopilots for small planes, including BendixKing, Genesys/S-TEC, Avidyne and Garmin. Garmin and Avidyne introduced autopilots that have safety features unheard of 25 years ago in light planes, including envelope protection to keep the plane from going outside the normal margins of flight (unless, that is, the pilot directly commands that maneuver.) And it does it even when the autopilot is turned off. The effect is an autopilot that helps prevent the most prevalent type of fatal accident in GA: loss of control.

But the new revolution isn’t as much about manufacturers introducing new capabilities to their systems as much as making the systems’ orders of magnitude less expensive while keeping the great capabilities they already have. Dynon, along with EAA, started the ball rolling about a year and a half ago when it got approval for owners of certain light planes to put the previously Experimental-only EFIS D10A right in the panel of their Skyhawks. Since that time, the ball has picked up speed, with Garmin introducing a pair of primary flight instruments, the G5 attitude indicator and G5 HSI, both of which were formerly for amateur-built planes.

Then, just a few months ago, a bevy of autopilot approvals came through, including blockbuster announcements by Garmin and Genesys of next-gen digital autopilots that will allow owners of even older, less-valuable planes to equip with high-quality digital auto-flight systems.

Today you can those autopilots to play along with display/control options that weren’t available when we wrote this. The Garmin GI-275 is the most noteworthy. An upgrade to the somewhat limited G5 display, the GI-275 does much more, including allowing you to control the autopilot through the display. There are also new flat-panel solutions for existing planes from Dynon and Garmin, though your autopilot choices depend on which display system you go with, so sure to make informed decisions when the time comes.

Here’s a roundup of the big recent announcements on the autopilot front:

Genesys S-TEC 3100

With new capabilities and a great price point, the new S-TEC autopilot leapfrogs its predecessors

Genesys announced in late July its new S-TEC 3100 digital autopilot. The 3100 will effectively take the place of the popular S-TEC 55X by costing slightly less while providing a great deal of capability, of which its legacy autopilots could only dream. S-TEC’s entry-level autopilots are extremely popular because they are rate-based units that use rate-of-turn instead of attitude to base their commands, compared with legacy autopilots for this class of plane. Those autopilots, available in hundreds of models of planes, were once the only economically feasible way for owners of light GA planes to put flight control systems in their planes.

The 3100 goes beyond those systems, providing far superior features and, presumably, performance (we plan to flight test the system as soon as possible) at a price point that will be competitive with its legacy products. The comparable product in S-TEC’s lineup is the 55X flight control computer. The popular rate-based autopilot was standard equipment in thousands of Cirrus SR22 and SR20 aircraft before Cirrus transitioned to the Garmin G1000-based panel several years ago.

The 3100 is an all-digital autopilot that boasts envelope protection and a straight and level button, as have become popular on Genesys’ competitors autopilots, as well as advanced autopilot features, including fully coupled approaches (both WAAS and radio-nav based), indicated airspeed and vertical speed hold, altitude hold and capture, course intercept and more. The company expects certification for the system in early 2018, with the first models slated for STCs including the Cessna 182, Cessna 210, Beechcraft Bonanza and Piper Saratoga.

Genesys plans to announce firm pricing on the autopilot soon, but it does say that it will be price competitive with Garmin’s recently announced top-tier GFC 600, which has a list price of between around $20,000 and $24,000 for the high-performance aircraft that Garmin is targeting with initial STC programs.

While the new S-TEC autopilot isn’t an existing Experimental product repurposed for the certificated world, arguably it wouldn’t exist save for the emergence of new autopilot options for pilots who have traditionally gone with S-TEC because it was the best-value option (often the only option) for owners of light planes whose hull value didn’t justify installing a more sophisticated model of autopilot.

Learn more at Genesys Aerosystems.

Dynon SkyView HDX

A flat panel with autopilot from Dynon for the former price of what it used to cost for just the autopilot

Dynon is in the process of certifying its SkyView HDX integrated instrument panel, which is in this roundup because the system comes with an integrated autopilot. First STCs are planned for the Cessna Skyhawk and Beechcraft Baron 58. The Dynon-certified equipment is the same as its SkyView HDX, which was designed for Experimental Category aircraft. The system includes dual displays, with a primary flight display with synthetic vision and angle-of-attack capability, a full functioned autopilot using Dynon servos, engine monitoring, moving map and flight management and a fully compliant ADS-B transponder. Dynon expects to make first customer deliveries by the end of the year. The company also said that it “expects to continuously expand the approved model list (AML)” to include a “broad range” of aircraft.

Dynon also announced its emerging plans to start a network of factory-run installation centers that will focus on installing SkyView HDX in certified airplanes. It’s looking at establishing the first center in the Seattle area.

The cost of the system is $16,000 plus a $2,000 STC fee. For IFR flight, the system does require a third-party IFR-certified WAAS GPS navigator, so the overall price for planes without an existing GPS-W receiver will be substantially higher than that for IFR operations.

Learn more at Dynon.

Garmin GFC 500 And GFC 600

Avionics giant’s new autopilots will break cost and capability barriers

With the announcement of its latest product for the used market, Garmin has done the seemingly impossible. It has once again changed the face of the retrofit avionics industry. The two new products, the GFC 500 and GFC 600, are intended for two separate classes of airplanes, the 500 for light low-to-mid performance singles and the 600 for high-performance singles and twins, including turbines. Both retrofit autopilots will have an impressive range of capabilities, including just about every feature of the popular GFC 700, including altitude hold and capture, indicated airspeed hold and vertical speed hold, plus nav and heading tracking. In addition, they will feature ESP envelope protection functions, which protect the plane from a variety of potentially unsafe flight scenarios, including overbanking, overspeed and underspeed protection, along with having Garmin’s Straight and Level button, which the pilot can push to return to a straight and level attitude to avoid an emerging loss of control.

The autopilots will come with their own servos, which are different for the two products and which is one of the chief differentiators between them. Both servo types are brushless DC units, but the 600’s are hardened for an extra margin of safety in harsher environmental conditions, such as might be encountered at very high altitudes or in icing conditions. The 600 can also integrate with a wide variety of existing panel-mount equipment, including the Garmin G500/G600 displays, as well as equipment from other manufacturers, so that, in theory, owners of many planes with an already-well-equipped panel will be able to add the Garmin autopilot without having to change the rest of the panel.

While the GFC 600 autopilot is designed to TSO standards as a stand-alone unit, the GFC 500 is based on Garmin’s G3X autopilot, popular among homebuilders. The unit will interface with a Garmin G5 electronic flight display and will feature a dedicated autopilot controller with Garmin’s familiar control wheel for setting airspeed and vertical speed values.

Cost of the GFC 500 when paired with an existing G5 flight instrument is just $6,995, and it can be purchased with a G5 primary display as a set for around $10,000. Garmin expects initial certification for the GFC 500 later this year in the Cessna 172, with certifications for the Cessna 182 and Piper PA-28 models to follow early next year.

The GFC 600 will sell for $19,995 for the A36 Bonanza and $23,995 for the Beechcraft Baron, two models for which Garmin has already earned STC approvals.

Learn more at Garmin.

TruTrak Vizion

An autopilot that breaks new ground on price

While it won’t come with all the bells and whistles of its Experimental-to-certified competitors, the TruTrak Vizion is priced at a point lower than anybody in the market, which could make the autopilot a real option even for owners of older Part 23 planes that until now were not good candidates for an autopilot retrofit.

The Vizion is a 2-axis autopilot that is capable of connecting with both handheld and panel-mounted GPS units. It also has an emergency level feature. Though not yet authorized, the system is capable of performing coupled instrument approaches, an approval TruTrak is pursuing. The Vizion comes in three models—standard, 3-inch and flat pack, all for the same price of $5,000. The EAA STC is on sale to members for $100. TruTrak estimates an average install time of just 18 hours, so install costs should be reasonable, too.

And it’s available now. EAA subsidiary EAA STC, LLC has begun selling STCs for TruTrak’s Vizion autopilot. TruTrak got Parts Manufacturer Approval (PMA) from the FAA for installation of the Vizion in select Part 23 aircraft this past spring.

At the moment, the Vizion is available for Cessna 172 models F through S. EAA and TruTrak are working to expand that list in the near future. Next in line are additional 172 models and the Cessna 177. For interested owners of other types of aircraft, TruTrak has an online signup form to help them decide where to take the autopilot next.

Learn more at TruTrak.

Want to read more about building and modifying aircraft? Check out our Modifications Archive.

The post Can You Afford NOT To Install A New Autopilot In Your Used Plane? appeared first on Plane & Pilot Magazine.

Worried about getting stuck somewhere with a dead battery and no way to get going again, I set out to solve my starting issues. At annual inspection time, I sat down with my friendly neighborhood A&P and discussed my problem. I knew that the battery in my Cherokee was located all the way behind the baggage area bulkhead. I suspected that this might be the cause of the slow starter.

Because of their light weight and cheap cost, aluminum battery cables were used by a number of aircraft manufacturers. While aluminum is a great conductor, over time aluminum battery cables can develop corrosion of the wires and connectors. Once the corrosion sets in, the cable becomes an inline series resistor and, combined with the high starter current, develops a significant voltage drop along your battery cable. This reduces the voltage that is available for the starter motor and slows down the starter. Adding to the problem, the undesirable resistance becomes a heat source and could eventually cause bigger problems.

Over the years, most of my cables had already been replaced with copper, but the long run from the Master solenoid to the Starter solenoid on the firewall was still aluminum. After some discussion of what needed to be done and how to do it, I was given the “go-ahead” to tackle the job. I was under the supervision of a qualified A&P mechanic throughout the task.

For a step-by-step look at the process, see the Replacing Your Battery Cables photo gallery.

Believe it or not, you can also make your own custom cables, which, since I’m a hands-on kind of guy, was my solution. I started by carefully removing all of the interior panels necessary for access to the battery cable. My seats were already out, since we were performing the annual inspection. A lot of parts bags, and several different right-angle screwdrivers, were necessary to carefully remove all of the interior trim and panels. Making sure to bag every screw and then tying them off to the appropriate interior piece makes reassembly much easier.

The parts department ordered 20 feet of aviation-grade AN-2 copper wire as specified in the Service Bulletin, as well as several terminals. I studied the routing of the existing cable and noted the locations of any clamps used to secure the cable. The cable passes through an opening in the lower left firewall into the engine compartment. This pass-through is sealed and must be resealed with an appropriate caulk after the cable is installed.

I started in the middle of the run, cutting the existing cable and pulling it through the airframe. As I pulled the old cable out, I pushed the new cable through its path, first toward the rear of the airplane, then toward the front. After adjusting the slack in the cable, front and rear, I cut the cable. I was left with cable ends ready for terminals at the Master solenoid and the Starter solenoid. When I cut the cable, I provided enough slack to replace the terminal connections, if it ever became necessary.

Preparing the cable for the terminal is fairly simple, but you must use care to minimize damage on the copper strands when you strip the wire. This prevents fatigue failure of the outer layer of copper strands. Once you have the end stripped and ready for a terminal, you need to test fit the cable one more time. A trick I learned is to determine the position of the terminal on the cable that places minimal strain on the connection, and put a mark on both the cable and terminal with a marker to allow you to crimp the terminal in the correct orientation, finishing it with shrink-wrap.

Crimping the cable is done with a large crimping tool. Borrow one if you can. Good ones aren’t cheap. Luckily, our shop has one that looks old but does a great job. It has a knurled knob that adjusts the stroke of the crimper. Find the location that matches your cable size, make the adjustment, and it is ready to go. Line up your marks, make sure the shrink-wrap is in place, and crimp away. While it could probably be done solo, it sure helps to have someone help with this operation.

Once both ends are done, all that is left is to secure the cable at both ends and replace the interior pieces.

So, was it worth it? The first time I hit the starter, it turned over like a new airplane. The airport owner asked me afterward if I installed a new starter. We were both amazed at the difference. The increased cranking speed also results in easier starts, since the magnetos are spinning faster and produce a higher cranking voltage, making for consistently happy starts.

Denny Kotz is a retired mechanical engineer who, after a lifetime of dreaming about flying, earned his certificate at the age of 63. A native of Sandusky, Ohio, he has lived in North Augusta, South Carolina, since 1981. Another one of his passions is performing music, and he is a member of the Flying Musicians Association.

Want more stories and information about buying, owning, and maintaining your own airplane? Check out our Aircraft Ownership Archive.

The post Replacing Your Battery Cables appeared first on Plane & Pilot Magazine.

That last one, avionics, might sound easy until you’ve tried it yourself. In fact, installing radios can be a bear. Even after you’ve fabricated the radio racks, the job is a lot more than merely sliding in the new radios, flipping the avionics master and firing up XM radio for a little celebratory music. There are a number of challenges associated with avionics installs, but arguably none is as complicated or, if you, heaven forbid, wire something incorrectly, as hard to troubleshoot as wiring your new avionics system. Indeed, it’s one of those jobs that you learn as you go, so the first time you do it is when you make the mistakes you’re supposed to learn from. Only problem is, with this kind of job, that second chance comes at a cost, in both time and dollars.

There are a couple of ways to save time and money and head off complications. If you’ve got that friend who knows aircraft wiring inside and out (okay, mostly inside), you can ask or beg for help, and, if they say yes and they’re good, you’re in luck. For those of us less fortunate, we can always go to our local avionics shop, though that can get more expensive than we might have the budget for, and it eliminates much of the savings you hoped to realize by buying your own radios in the first place, instead of from the dealer/installer.

One option that we discovered recently might help homebuilders with all of these concerns. Aircraft Spruce & Specialty last year launched a custom wire harness shop that will build harnesses for homebuilders based specifically on the airplane they’re building, the radios they have selected to go in their panel and any other considerations, such as remote mounting or standby installations.

Aircraft Spruce technicians do the work at the company’s shop in Corona, California, and the quality of the work—we had a chance to witness firsthand a harness being put together—was top-notch. You get high-quality wiring and connectors, just the right length, so there are no bad surprises of the too-short variety, and you avoid the extra weight and hassle that homebuilders often create for themselves when they play it safe and make their runs longer than really necessary—as a “little” longer than necessary often turns into “way” longer than necessary.

Learn more atAircraft Spruce & Specialty Avionics Wire Harness Shop.

Want to read more about building and modifying aircraft? Check out our Modifications Archive.

The post Custom Wiring Harnesses For Homebuilts appeared first on Plane & Pilot Magazine.