Top of the list is the GI-issue, 90-degree D-cell flashlight, complete with replaceable red and blue filters. However, these are a bit heavy, require a strap to clip to, and replacing the filters is a bit clumsy.  The heavy metal Maglites, all the rage a few years ago, are very bright, very strong, and perfect for self-defense, as well as illumination. However, Maglites, like so many others, require one hand to hold them while juggling checklists, baggage doors, and flight controls with the other.

Then, there are the myriad of available LED lights. Most have the same problem. Lighter than the Maglite, they still leave the pilot one-handed. The only solution to these problems is the Cyclops light. You know, the LEDs that strap to your forehead. These are effective, less than comfortable, and hardly a style statement. 

• READ MORE: DIY Tow Bar Upgrades

Then one day, while cruising the local hardware store (my favorite errand!), I came across a wonderful little product. For the princely sum of around $20, I picked up an LED work light that you hang around your neck. This nifty little product features a flexible neck strap that connects two LED mini-lights, each powered by an AA battery. Each light has both low and bright settings, and each can be independently positioned up or down through approximately 45 degrees. It looks like these are manufactured by one or two companies and then branded in different colors along with many of the popular tool brands. 

Eager to try my new light, I went out for a night flight, and voilà, during preflight the two lights illuminated the airplane, leaving hands free to hold the checklist and open the required panels and doors. However, once I jumped in the airplane, the white light was simply too bright and took a toll on my night vision. So, what was I to do? 

A trip to the local auto parts store (my second favorite errand!) produced a roll of translucent tail light tape for about $5. This self-adhesive red tape is meant to repair tail lights, and the adhesive is designed to stand up to the rigors of heat, cold, snow, and rain on the back of your automobile. Add a pair of scissors to cut a couple of three-quarter-inch red squares and tape over one of the lenses, and the night vision problem is solved. I use both the white and red lights for preflight and the red light for inside the cabin.

The two-level light settings are really helpful, and the red tape dramatically softens the interior light. Now, when I fly at night, I just place the light around my neck, ready for use at a moment’s notice. The light is comfortable and easy to use. Total cost: $25. Better light, hands-free, and night vision preserved. Priceless! 

The post Affordable DIY: Hands-Free Flashlight appeared first on Plane & Pilot Magazine.

As a current Cessna Cardinal—and former Piper Warrior—owner, I was not satisfied with the tow bars available for these popular aircraft. In the case of the Cessna, the spring-loaded towbar connects to two lugs, one on each side of the nose strut, and snaps together to allow the pilot to maneuver the airplane. 

The Piper tow bar snaps into two holes on the front of the strut, and then when the spring is released, the tow bar is locked in place. The problem is that the tow bars, if released, can dig into the fiberglass of the nose wheel fairing, leaving significant scars. So, what is a pilot to do?

A trip to the local hardware store (one of my favorite journeys) produced the following ingredients. 

First up, an 8-foot length of foam PVC pipe insulation. This looks like a gray/black pool noodle and comes in various diameters. Best of all, it is pre-split down one side to allow it to slip over the pipe. 

Second, a package of medium-length (color coordinated?) snap ties that are used to hold electrical wires together. By the way, snap ties and duct tape should be a part of every aviator’s toolbox. 

Once back at the hangar, a set of wire cutters and a box cutter complete the kit. 

You’ll need to measure the portion of the tow bar that may come in contact with the nose wheel pant. For Cessnas, these seem to be two sections about 8-10 inches long. For the Piper, a foot or so on the center post near the two-prong connector will do. 

Cut the PVC pipe insulation to match, and then secure the sections to the tow bar with the snap ties. And voila, you now have a padded tow bar that will protect your fiberglass and paint, even if you lose your grip and drop it. 

Total cost: about 15 bucks. Keeping your nosewheel fairing bright and shiny: Priceless!

Do you have tips for simple, cost-effective upgrades that help you care for your airplane? Send us a note at editor@planeandpilotmag.com.

The post DIY Tow Bar Upgrades appeared first on Plane & Pilot Magazine.